Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – little-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children are unwilling to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to learn these narratives and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
